Vietnam…More than Robusta

I must start this post with some clarification and admittance to some horrible habits. This trip was taken in April of 2024, and it took me two years to write it down on this website. Below you will find the best account of my journey by memory and notes.

*Busy street at sunset, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam*

My travels in Vietnam began after my time in Taiwan, and I arrived in Ho Chi Minh. I was greeted by sticky warmth, which was a breath of fresh air compared to the chilly and wet Taipei. I rode from the airport to my lodging and immediately went to bed, thankful for the warmth and spacious accomodation. I woke up and upon looking out the window from high up in the tower I slept in, and saw a line of moving objects on the road. Upon closer inspection, I noticed it was an endless stream of motorbikes. It was insane! Quite special to witness the intensity of motorbike culture in Vietnam. And what an amazing first sight of Vietnam.

*Hummingbird Cafe Interior, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam*

I then took a motorbike to a nearby coffee shop, and sipped on a coffee for the morning at a lovely place called Hummingbird Cafe. I was overjoyed to drink some Vietnamese Catimor, and relished with bliss as the coffee refuled my energy tank. Once my coffee was finished, I bikd over to the Atlantic Commodities Vietnam Ltd., Co. (ACOM) headquarters to meet with the companions that would show me around coffee farms the following few days. We had a nice chat as I met the team and planned our journey. ACOM are responsible for a significant portion of coffee exported from Vietnam, and they are doing some excellent work to ensure there is a future for coffee production in the country.

*Green coffee beans, ACOM dry mill, Bảo Lộc, Lâm Đồng*

Vietnam has an interesting coffee history, which began after French missionaries brought coffee to the soils of the Central Highlands in the 1800s. Sadly, the horrific war that ravaged the country from 1955 through 1975 halted all coffee production. As the country recovered, the Đổi Mới agricultural reform helped restore the country economically. It was during this time that coffee production really took off, and helped make Vietnam the world’s second leading coffee producer (20% of global trade; 95% of which is robusta). It was truly remarkable to be in this country, and to have the ability to travel with ACOM to these famous coffee producing lands.

*Hoff Coffee Brewers Interior, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam*

After the meeting, I biked for some more coffee, obviously, enjoying the wind in my hair as I rode another bike. So thrilling. I sipped on a coffee at Hoff Coffee Brewers and read on the second level of the building, preparing for my journey the following day. The rest of this day, however, was spent relaxing, enjoying the city, watching the sunset, and eventually eating some local food. The streets were filled with stands serving the famous phở in large white cermic bowls, adorned with blue paintings.

The following morning, my companions collected me at the high rise building I was residing. We then ventured deep into the Lâm Đồng province to Bảo Lộc to visit the research facilities and cupping lab for ACOM in this region. The drive was long, we sipped strong robusta coffee from a convenience station along the way. My book providing me comfort on the long drive. And upon arrival, had a lovely meal prepared for us.

*ACOM Farmer Training Center, Bảo Lộc, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

We then explored the research facility, which was filled with test plots for various coffee hybrids between robusta and Arabica. One of my companions, Thuận Sarzynski, a local who grew up in France, was one of the managers for ACOM’s research group. He showed me the nursery filled with various experiments/hybrids to be planted throughout the research plots. These different plots had coffee trees planted in varying methods to understand which conditions fared best. It is here where ACOM’s Sustainable Management Services (SMS) is working to understand how best to help the producers in Vietnam combat the encroaching threat of climate change.

*Thuận Sarzynski, SMS Vietnam Manager, holding coffee seedling, Bảo Lộc, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

ACOM and SMS have begun implementing various initiatives to assist farmers with preparations for the changes in climate. Thuận explained that these involved projects such as agroforestry training, crop insurance, and a loan program for irrigation to prepare producers. They are also training farmers to plant fruit trees to offer coffee plants a shaded cooler environment to combat against the increasing heat, while also giving producers another source of income. This is known as agroforestry, an adaptation and mitigation technique to climate change, which typically combines food crops, such as coffee, with perennial tree crops, such as banana or other native trees. Soil health also benefits from agroforestry with a more biodiverse ecosystem and root structures to prevent soil erosion or nutrient depletion.

*ACOM Coffee Seedling Nursery, Bảo Lộc, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

SMS is also assisting farmers by connecting them to insurance companies to help insure their crops for when there is a climate disaster. Loans are also provided to producers by SMS with the support of the International Finance Corporation (IFC) to acquire irrigation systems for drought periods. Considerable research focused on varietal trials is being conducted to understand which coffee plants fare best in different conditions under the Breedcafs program. Additionally, the BOLERO project is working on grafting to assess different root stocks and how they react to different climate conditions. There are also trainings being offered to producers to teach them more about climate change and how best to adapt with Good Agricultural Practices (GAP), which occur twice a year.

*Coffee sack with green beans, ACOM dry mill, Bảo Lộc, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

The work being done by SMS and ACOM is vital to the future of coffee production in Vietnam, an industry that is sensitive to the increased temperatures and decreased rainfall caused by climate change.

*ACOM dry mill coffee resting*, *Bảo Lộc, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

Now back to the trip…after we wandered around the test plots and nursery, I ventured over to the dry mill, to see how the coffee was carefully processed to remove the external shell and rested before being shipped out throughout the world. We had a small cupping where I tasted some lovely Arabica beans that were processed using the Anaerobic Natural method. I also was able to taste some of the higher quality robusta beans. I prefered the Arabica of course…but still a joy to try!

*ACOM quality lab cupping*, *Bảo Lộc, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

My other companion, a Frenchman who has lived in Vietnam for many years, and I then traveled to the city to settle into our hotel. We searched high and low for some place to eat and drink, settling on some vegan restaurant offering fresh spring rolls that we were ordered to prepare ourselves. It was such a wonderful experience. We laughed and ate into the night. After the meal, we walked back to the hotel, where I bid my companion goodnight in French, as I love to do, and fell into a deep sleep.

*View from hotel in Bảo Lộc, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

In the morning, I craved some coffee, but was nervous about what was being sold in this small town. So I ventured outside to get an iced coffee of sorts, unforuntately, I was sold something that was coffee mixed with some form of bean, and it was absolutely disgusting.

*Coffee stop in Đạ Sar, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

Soon my companion met me, we headed out to our next adventure, and I kindly asked that we stop for some coffee. Our local guide was able to grant this request, and we stopped at a local specialty stand and sipped some lovely coffee in Đạ Sar. I was sad that we were leaving because I wanted to stay and sip all morning!

We traveled just down the road, the sky clear, the air dry, the heat delicate. I met a producer named Kosa Ha Yieu (pictured below), one of the many ACOM are working with to improve their production thanks to the support of SMS. All the producers in Vietnam that work with ACOM are recorded in a wonderful traceability system, whereby the SMS field workers are able to record notes and photos. It was remarkable.

*Kosa Ha Yieu at his farm, Đạ Sar, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

Before we leave this area, we stopped for some snacks - dried tamarind and locally grown cashews (hạt điều). The cashews were huge, and so rich. The tamarind tart and sweet. You know…Vietnam is the leading exporter of cashews, so it felt like such a treat to nibble on the nut in its home country.

*Cashews (hạt điều), Đạ Sar, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

The next drive was a bit long, my companion struggled with carsickness as I dove into a lovely novel.

The next place we were visiting I knew well, as it was a village that the company I worked for purchased several containers of coffee from, helping to really breathe life into this special project. The car soon passed an entrance sign to Dưng K'Nớ, and I felt so much excitement to finally be in the village I had adored from afar.

There are over 2,100 people in this small village, of the K’Ho indigenous people, and what is special about this area are the ideal conditions to grow Arabica. As we carefully gained altitude in the car, we were soon met by a sprite producer who showed us around his plot. The altitude averages to 1,800 meters above sea level here, excellent for Catimor, Bourbon, and Typica. The forest is lush here, there is a breeze and the sun is warm. We trek through the coffee trees, down a quiet road, where I ask questions to learn more about this amazing area. The project in this village started in 2018 with ACOM, and now work with over 180 producers, who are aiming to improve the quality of thier coffee to increase their income.

*Bonnieng H Lương and his farm, Dưng K'Nớ Village, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

Next we travel down the road, where we encounter a female producer carrying a load of sticks on her back. I say hello and greet her. She answers some questions but then breaks down to tears, her husband recently passed and she has had to care for the farm and her home without him. This broke my heart to see, this poor woman, alone and struggling. I wanted to hug her, to tell her it would be ok. Alas…the language barrier prevented me from speaking more with her. But her determination and strength showed me how amazing the K’Ho people are.

*Farm in Dưng K'Nớ Village, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam*

As we descended back down the mountain, away from the village, my heart was warmed and I felt so honored to have met these producers, to be able to drink the beans they grow, and to breathe in the air of Dưng K'Nớ. Tears filled my eyes.

The car soon dropped us in Đà Lạt, the capital city of Lâm Đồng, where we would be staying for the night. Our hotel welcomed us, and we dropped off luggage and cleaned up for dinner.

We ventured out into the city in search of wine or a drink, and found a sweet spot to sip, get a bit tipsy, and talk about life and love. It was quite special. We then said goodnight and went to rest before our final day in Lâm Đồng.

*Liong Taong Nghia at his farm in Cầu Đất, Vietnam*

In the morning, we drove to Cầu Đất to meet with Liong Taong Nghia, a producer who worked closely with ACOM and SMS. We explored his farm and processing area, enjoying the views. Then headed to the Đức Trọng ACOM wet mill, where all the coffee is processed, and where the coffee from Dung K’No is carefully processed separately. We wandered around the mill, had a small snack, then went to the airport. It was time to head back to Ho Chi Minh. A quick flight, and a farewell to my French companion at the airport.

I taxied to my next accomodation, another high rise apartment, where I dropped my luggage, then headed out on the bike once more for some coffee and computer time at Hummingbird once more. I ended up finding a lovely massage spot afterwards, that offered some delicious dried fruit before your massage. It was a relaxing time after my few days in the rural coffee lands.

The next day, I tasted coffee at a new spot called Grandmum, in a tiny garden that was quite tranquil. I swam at the rooftop pool in the afternoon, feeling refreshed. Then, in the evening, I motorbiked all over the city, watching the sunset as I felt the wind in my hair, even having time to see the Miếu Thiên Hậu Temple. Nighttime and rest, repacking for another adventure.

*Miếu Thiên Hậu Temple in Ho Chi Minh at sunset, Vietnam*

I flew to Hanoi (capital city of Vietnam in the North) in the morning, I even somehow got a first class seat upgrade, for my 40 minute flight. I sat next to a family who pulled out corn cobs to chomp on during the flight. What an unusual sight.

In Hanoi, I quickly dropped my bag at my accomodation, and headed out to find coffee. This city was bustling, so busy, full of tourists, the architecture completely different from the South. More cultural, narrow roads, and so much food. Felt like night and day! I learn that the North and the South still do not like each other.

The first cafe I went to was not at all noteworthy so not even going to mention it. But I biked to another, nestled deep in the conglomerate of buildings, called Still Color. It was simply divine! I sat outside on a tiny chair with a tiny table, sipping espresso, and enjoyed watching locals wandering around, selling vegetables, the aromas of cooking food in the air. Then I walked all over. I explored, saw some beautiful temples, the clouds blanketed the sky above.

My stomach was telling me it was craving cashews, so I soon found a shop selling some fat cashews, with the skin still encasing the rich nut. Delicious. I found another coffee shop that served the famous ‘egg coffee,’ a Vietnamese coffee beverage that I was not inclined to try but heard it was delicious.

More *cashews (hạt điều), Hanoi, Vietnam*

Eggyolk Coffee was so cute, quiet, and hidden down an alley. I sipped an iced coffee here as I nibbled more on cashews. A glorious moment. My legs vibrating from all the walking. That evening, I ventured out for some vegan phở and gỏi cuốn (salad rolls). I sat upstairs at a restaurant as rain misted down. I watched tourists wander, listened to the massage parlours calling out to everyone offering massages. What a peaceful evening.

In the morning, I packed up and headed out to a cafe to work. This spot was called Atelier Coffee, I stayed here for a couple of hours where I sipped on an iced pour over.

I then walked all over the city, looking at the colorful streets with their paper lanterns, the elaborate pagodas. My favorite was the Trấn Quốc Pagoda, so tall and stunning, sitting delicately on a small lake. I listened to caged songbirds, wandered around temples, bought some local fruit, and said goodbye to the city.

I hopped into a shuttle headed for Hạ Long Bay, something I had dreamt of visiting for quite some time. This is an area on the coast, the water rich in emerald hues, filled with towering limestone geologic structures. I was vibrating, ready to see the outcrops and eager to be in the water.

I was dropped at my hotel (Alacarte Ha Long By Homie) which felt abandoned, but it was extremely luxorious, elaborate, ornate, and stunning. I think I was the only guest there, and soon I checked in and took the elevator high up to my room. I was blown away…my window looked out at the bay and I nearly cried. The space was amazing, so clean, huge, with autmotaic curtains. I put on my swimsuit, to play in the pool on the first floor. It was heated, adorned with special lights. I felt like a mermaid swimming and diving. Then soaked in the hot tub before returning to my room for bed. A glorious escape.

*My secret swimming pool, Alacarte Ha Long By Homie, Hạ Long Bay, Vietnam*

In the morning, I took the elevator to the top of the hotel, where I sipped an insanely strong iced coffee, as I looked out at the bay and worked on my computer. Shortly after, I took a car to the port, and boarded a boat with many other tourists to explore the bay.

I was so amazed, the boat immediately carved through the famous outcrops, exquisite, breathtaking, and so special. It was cloudy, and a tad chilly, but still, it was amazing. I made friends with some other Americans and we chatted about life and where our lives were going. We explored caves, climbed up some of the larger more famous rocks, and simply enjoyed the view.

It was dark by the time we arrived back at the port, and I bid my friends farewell, and headed back to my hotel. I learned that mostly everyone was staying in Hanoi, taking a shuttle to the bay for the tour, and returning. I felt pretty happy with my decision to stay at my special high rise for a couple nights. The large outcrops of limestone keeping me safe.

I returned, showered, and found a shop for more cashews. I feasted and snuggled into bed, so happy with the day.

My final morning in Vietnam, I woke to the bay, the rocks, the sea, with so much joy. I nearly cried at this moment, so much gratitude for the earth and for the greatness of Vietnam. I packed up, returned to the rooftop cafe for another black iced foamy coffee concoction. Worked a bit, then went downstairs to check out and wait for my shuttle to the airport.

*Interesting frothy strong coffee, Hạ Long Bay, Vietnam*

I sipped on a coffee during the journey back to town, which was a mistake, the high-caffeine content of robusta finally catching up to me. I made it to the airport in time, vibrating, a headache on the horizon, with so much happiness and love for Vietnam.

It is here where my Vietnamese adventure ended. And the plane I would soon board would take me to Bangkok, to embark on a new coffee journey in Thailand. Stay tuned.

*Quán Thánh Temple (Taoist), Hanoi, Vietnam*

For now…I am cherishing the coffee, the producers, the cashews, the land, and the people of Vietnam.

Vietnam…More than Robusta

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