Finally…Thailand.

Full disclosure…I wrote this blog nearly two years after this journey. Below is my best recount of the grand adventure.

As many travelers know…we all dream of the day we get to step foot in the country of Thailand. To be immersed in the lush jungles, see an elephant, swim in the oceans in the south, eat street food, and embark on the insane city of Bangkok.

For me…it seemed so wild…I was flying to Thailand! And I had zero expectations. I would be spending a couple of days in Bangkok, then traveling to the North to explore coffee farms. Thanks to some of my connections. Never thought I would be someone who had so many connections throughout the world, but here we are!

Now…the flight from Hanoi was horrible. I was in a middle seat, a headache taking residence in my brain, and my only refuge were two tiny bags of cashews the airline sold.

Customs took ages, and finally I was outside. Only to meet more chaos, trying to locate my driver. Which I eventually did. Bangkok greeted me with its insanity. Only those who have visited can understand that this city is crazy. High rises galore, traffic, street food, temples, so so much.

I finally arrived to my Airbnb, throbbing headache in tow. I entered the glistening tall building, soared to one of the top floors, and found my room, cozy and sweet with a stunning city view (and it was quite cheap). I showered then did something I never do, even back home, and I ordered a smoothie bowl on a food delivery app. It was exquisite, sweet, and just what I needed. Then I fell into a deep sleep.

In the morning, I awoke to the skyline, the hazy view of Bangkok, eager to get out and DRINK SOME THAI COFFEE. So off I went down the elevator and out into Thailand, finally, with my endless list of shops to visit.

No, I did not know before this moment that Thailand would have the most wonderful coffee shops I have ever seen in the world. My expectations were simply to have some locally grown coffee and sit for a while on my computer. But I soon arrived at Single Lane, a humble shop within walking distance, and ordered an iced pour over, beans originating from Thailand. The cafe was quiet, the coffee, delicious, and I felt so so happy. I worked for a while, then decided to bike to another cafe, to try more coffee (I was only spending two nights in Bangkok). So grabbed a Grab bike, and headed to Sarnies.

This place was exceptional - so much care went into each drink, the menu filled with an array of specialty beverages far grander than anything in the United States. I sipped my cold brew for some time before venturing out in search of temples.

I wandered, sweat, and found so many stunning golden temples. There was a river, aromas of cooking food, and it was amazing.

Soon I took another bike to a coffee shop called Mother Roaster, which was nestled in an old warehouse plastered with colorful graffiti and art. Cats hopping about, people sipping coffee, it was a hidden coffee haven. I ordered my coffee and relaxed, enjoying the dark and cool ambience. This place was so weird and random.

The rest of my day was spent swimming on the rooftop of my hotel, finding some vegan food, and wandering around. I got a bit blue here, not going to lie. But my book kept me company and soon I went to sleep.

The morning came and I loved waking up to the expansive view of Bangkok. Some smog, but so vast. Endless buildings and movement. I packed up, and walked to get coffee, of course. I trotted to a spot called Ink & Lion. This place was also really special, and I was slowly realizing that Thailand really knew what they were doing with coffee. I was thrilled. I drank my coffee, worked a bit, and walked back to my hotel to head to the airport.

Soon, on another plane, and I arrived in Chiang Mai. Little did I know, but I was about to arrive at one of the best coffee cities in the world. I had organized this little trip thanks to a friend who works for Cup of Excellence, and the team that hosts the competition was meeting me to show me around some farms.

While I was in transit, I researched what coffee shops there would be in Chiang Mai (I had low expectations). But…to my astonishment, there were endless coffee shops each with excellent and beautiful perfection. Yes, they were perfect. I teemed with excitement.

*Gateway Coffee Roasters, Chiang Mai, Thailand*

Once I arrived, my hosts picked me up and asked me what I wanted to do. I said coffee of course. So we drove to one of my many bookmarked shops, and I was in awe. I stepped into one of the nicest shops I have ever seen…Gateway Coffee Roasters. The outside was so simple, it was astonishing the amazingness inside. It was like I stepped back in time, with all the antique furniture and china. But the brew bar was from a whole other universe. I ordered some Thai coffee and went to heaven. I looked around in awe at this exquisite cafe, and wondered what else I would discover the next few days.

*Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai, Thailand*

My new friends then took me to a couple of temples, I climbed up a long staircase, lined with a curving sculpture of a dragon (Wat Phra That Doi Suthep), and gazed out at the view of the city. The sun was setting, and soon I was driven to a vegan restaurant (yes my friends knew I was vegan and spoiled me with dinner). Such a wonderful day! I was a bit sad at the start, but man…I was falling in love with Chiang Mai.

I was dropped at my hotel, a tiny spot that advertised also as an ice cream shop. My room was so small! But was happy to shower and rest. In the morning…I had a plan…

As the sun slowly rose, I woke up, got ready, and grabbed a bike to The Baristro, a coffee shop I was dying to visit. My companions were picking me up early, so I figured I would grab a quick coffee before we met. As soon as I arrived, I knew I struck gold. This shop was massive. Many different buildings, beautiful furniture, delicate vases of dried flowers, my goodness, it was heaven.

*The Baristro, Ping River, Chiang Mai, Thailand*

I ordered a coffee, well…I accidentally ordered an Americano, somehow (not my usual drink so I was a bit nervous). I brought my coffee outside, and sat watching the Ping River, with some other early risers enjoying the delicate morning. I sat and just watched. Now, I had developed a habit of needing to ‘do something’ while drinking my coffee. Checking emails, writing, reading, journalling. But today…I just sat. I sipped my coffee, and my eyes nearly fell out of my head. This coffee was exceptional. Not like the other terrible Americanos I have had before. It was smooth, like velvet, with some amazing fruity notes. I felt like I was a fish that needed to breathe this coffee. And the mug’s cermic curved edge made this coffee a true pleasure to drink. So I carefully sipped and sipped, until my companion called my name and told me it was time to go. I was actually sad to leave. It felt like home. The Asian Koel (bird) calling my name to stay.

I was traveling with two lovely humans, both of whom I am still friends with today. Golf (Woradanai) was the leader and the driver, and Pleaz, the sweet friend in the back who was learning English. I loved these two so much. We first drove to visit one coffee producer who was drying his cherries in what looked like his garage.

*Drying coffee cherries, Chiang Mai, Thailand*

We had a cupping, some talking, and I spent quite a lot of time in this strange garage place, swimming in the aroma of drying coffee cherries. Not a bad way to spend the morning.

Oh you must be wondering about Thailand coffee production! I must explain because the story is wonderful. And because Thailand is a young coffee-producing country and they are killing it.

*Phupha Coffee Estate, Chiang Mai, Thailand*

In 1849, coffee was introduced to Thailand, and Robusta production spread throughout the South. Arabica slowly made its way to the North but did not become widely planted until the 1970s with the passing of the Royal Project (Thai/UN Crop Replacement and Community Development Project) by King Bhumibol Adulyadej to influence locals to diversify their farms. Through the plan, coffee was introduced in the northern reaches of Thailand where the opium poppy was a primary crop. The government wanted to assist the impoverished tribes in the mountains to grow more profitable crops and promote sustainable development. The poppy crop was causing soil degradation and deforestation, making it not an entirely reliable source of income for the impoverished communities in areas such as Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. Thus, Arabica began to replace the poppy, allowing for some beautiful development in these small villages.

Today, the communities that were once struggling with poppy production, are now flourishing with eco-tourism, coffee farms, and cafes. The Akha and some Lisu people in Doi Chaang became so well-developed that the community created their own brand, Doi Chaang Coffee Company, and now encompass over 3,000 hectares of coffee-producing land, the largest area for Arabica production in Thailand. The group has gained international prominence and are now well-known in the coffee producing world.

*Blossoming coffee tree, Doi Chang, Chiang Rai, Thailand*

Currently, there are roughly 10,000 producers in all of Thailand, with farms typically around 3 hectares in size. In total, coffee farms spread across 40,000 hectares of the country, and annual production is, on average, around 30,000 tons, a small fraction of global production. Arabica primarily grows in the northern reaches of the country in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Nan, Mae Hong Sorn, Tak, and Lampang. Whereas Robusta grows in some of the lower elevation areas South in Chumphon, Surat Thani, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Krabi, Phang Nga, and Ranong. Robusta is the dominant species planted in Thailand, with Chumphon and Ranong making up a significant portion of the country’s overall production.

Something unique about Thailand is that coffee consumption has actually been increasing, surprisingly doubling between 2009 and 2019. The specialty coffee sector in cities such as Bangkok and Chiang Mai have exploded in recent years, driving up coffee consumption and demand for higher quality beans. The country also maintains a high tariff on coffee imports, influencing the local purchasing of coffee to support Thai coffee producers.

Now back to the adventure…

Then we drove quite a ways out of the main city to visit the Phupha Coffee Estate where I met Kantima "Ann" Tadplevthong. Ann was a powerful and young female farmer, and she was awesome. We explored her farm a bit, climbing through the lush trees. It was warm and dry out. I saw her processing area, which was pristine, organized, and so clean. Ann is a recognized excellent coffee producer, and had already won a number of awards for her coffee. So it was an honor to spend some time with her.

*Ann and her drying coffee cherries, Phupha Coffee Estate, Chiang Mai, Thailand*

Then we went back to her main ‘hangout’ area where Pleaz and I brewed many many pour overs. It was a joyous afternoon. We ate melon, sipped coffee, and soon the sun began to set. We said goodbye to Ann and her daughter, then headed down the mountain back to town.

*Brewing coffee, Phupha Estate, Chiang Mai, Thailand*

I was dropped off at my hotel to shower and clean up. Then I met Pleaz and Golf at another vegan restaurant, where we had a feast. Then we found some rooftop hangout spot, where we sipped on wine and nibbled on popcorn. It was so random. We stayed out late talking and laughing. It was such a wonderful moment.

The following day, Golf picked me up, and we went to another coffee shop I had been wanting to visit, Khna Coffee, which had a beautiful courtyard to relax in. Golf then took me to a bustling market that we wandered around for a bit, it was so eclectic and unique. Some handmade goods, delicious food, it looked like it could have been in the US, it was so developed.

Then, one more coffee shop (because I insisted) called Khagee, which was more of a bakery, but still, a stunning spot. (My favorite was still Baristro). On our way out of the city, we picked up another girl, Isariya, who was very talkative but so friendly. I loved her instantly. We had a meal together where I had vegan Thai tea (what?!) and then we began our drive to Doi Chang (elephant mountain) in Chiang Rai.

*Por Jai Specialty Coffee Farm, Doi Chang, Chiang Rai, Thailand*

The drive was long but so beautiful. Climbing up into the mountains, seeing all the small towns, and soon arriving at a home/coffee roaster called Por Jai Specialty Coffee Farm. We were greeted by P’ Aijai, who guided us inside to a patio overlooking the vast mountains surrounding us. It was gorgeous. Then the brewing began.

*Coffee patio, Por Jai, Doi Chang, Chiang Rai, Thailand*

I think they brewed seven coffees, all different, excellent, and special. They came from his farm and farms of friends. He grows only specialty but comes from a family of traditional coffee farming in Chiang Rai. I loved sitting, sipping, listening to the locusts hum (it was loud), and not needing to contribute since all the conversation was in Thai. Pure bliss.

*Riding in the truck, Doi Chang, Chiang Rai, Thailand*

Soon we were loaded into the beds of trucks to venture to the farm. It was a glorious ride. The sun was setting, the air was fresh, and the road bumpy. I felt so alive and happy, with Pleaz and Golf, it was pure bliss. The locusts were active, some even flew into my chest as we drove, which was freaky. And I realized the random moments of ‘rain’ hitting my face was actually coming from the locusts’ saliva. Hm…

*Coffee trees at sunset, Doi Chang, Chiang Rai, Thailand*

We arrived at the farm, wandered through the Gesha trees. I learned some Thai lingo from Isariya. A phrase ‘jai foo’ (ใจฟู) meant big swelling heart. I guess this is something that was popular on social media. So we were saying ‘jai foo’ left and right. They loved hearing me try to speak Thai.

*Sunset with locusts, Doi Chang, Chiang Rai, Thailand*

Back into the truck, and the sun officially set. It was gorgeous. And we arrived at some coffee hotel, mountain camping resort that was filled with blossoming robusta trees, emitting an aroma like jasmine. A fire was built, somehow Pleaz procured a guitar, and we sat around laughing, the gentle strum of music, the sky darkening, and dinner was prepared. They made an assortment of vegetables and tofu, there was red wine, and some amazing green chili sauce. My favorite were these little green eggplants. It was a perfect evening. The stars twinkling above.

*Blossoming robusta trees, Doi Chang, Chiang Rai, Thailand*

Oh and it did not stop there. They took me to my hotel, which they booked for me, so I had no idea where I was staying. And it was seriously a massive suite on a mountainside with a huge bed and a patio that I could not wait to sit on when the sun rose. I said goodbye to my friends, showered, and got into bed. Feeling so grateful. I had trouble falling asleep (probably all the coffee) but at some point I drifted…

*View of Doi Chang town, Chiang Rai, Thailand*

As promised, the sunrise was amazing. I gently woke up, watched with glee, and started my day. The view was fantastic. Endless mountains, and the sound of the locusts was even louder today. I had no idea why. Soon Golf picked me up and we returned to Por Jai to drink more coffee, chat a bit, then walk down through the farm. It was a quiet and easy morning.

*Drying coffee cherries, Doi Chang, Chiang Mai, Thailand*

We had a quick meal, I nibbled on some locally-grown macadamia nuts, and we said goodbye to the elephant mountain. On our way to the Chiang Rai airport, we stopped at Wat Rong Khun, or the White Temple, a crazy, intricately-constructed temple that was so elaborate, one could not walk around without their mouth open in awe. I cannot even describe the intricacy of this place. A grand finale.

Oh and one more coffee before the story ends. We quickly ran into Local Coffee and had some pour overs that were delicious. Then to the airport, where my story in Thailand comes to an end.

Pleaz, Golf, and I sat for a while waiting for our plane to Bangkok, talking, and trying not to worry about the delay since I had another connecting flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia that evening. But all went smoothly. And I felt so grateful to have made these friends, to have drank such exceptional coffee, seen some amazing farms, ate some delicious food, and visited some dreamy cafes.

Thailand treated me well. I know I will return…

Vietnam…More than Robusta